A Travellerspoint blog

Hotting it up in Jaisalmer

sunny 45 °C

Woke just after dawn to find that our guides had already made us black tea and it was a matter of minutes until our sugary bread was ready. We marveled at the blue sky and serenity whilst the guides loaded up the camels and we set off, taking a shorter route back to Khuri. The guides were trying to hurry us up and the Koreans had to go quickly as they had a guide on each camel with them but as we'd specifically requested to have our own, we were taking our time! We rode across the dunes, saw two small bright green birds and lots of sand! Once back in the village we tipped the drivers then packed our bags and went to settle our bill. There was a bit of confusion because the guy hadn't explained that if we wanted our own camels we'd have to pay for 3 camels rather than the price he'd quoted and asked "do you want the drivers on your camels or on one of their own". Ah well, it still wasn't expensive. About 15 minutes later the Koreans started to leave, it was 10.15 and the buses should be at 10 and 11 so we were going to wait a while but we decided to follow-it's a good job that we did as the 10am one was late and we ran the last 30m down the road and jumped on the bus, we even got seats! We'd padlocked our bags and it's a good job as on two occassions I saw the little kid next to us reach down into the aisle and try to open Sam's bag! On arrival in Jaisalmer we got a room in the Hotel Shree Girira, the cheapest room at 100 rupees with no AC which is the biggest mistake we've made in a long time! We had a wander around the fort which contained lots of little tourist shops in narrow alleys, we had a browse in a couple before finding some steps leading down onto the fort wall so we had a walk around, it didn't have many access points and was really dirty- i don't think many people walk around there! The noteable part of the wall which differentiated it from the other forts were large stone balls balanced on top of the wall. I thought that they might have been to push off onto intruders below but Sam assured me that cannons had been invented when this fort was built. In the afternoon we played in an internet cafe and found out that Dad is on facebook- crazy! We went back to our room to cool off and ended up lying on our bed and going to 'sleep' for the night which involved a lot of sweating, tossing and turning but not much sleeping!

We left our bags in 'left luggage' which was the double room next to ours then went for breakfast in a little cafe with a rooftop restaurant and great views of the fort to kill time before the Jain temples in the fort opened at 11am. We bought tickets outside the temples, took off our shoes and left them with the shoe keeper after a 'kind' offer from a shop owner to leave them safely in his shop - where they would probably be held ransom until we bought something! The first temple was beautifully ornate, decorated with sculptures of gods, animals and other deities and the holy men encouraged us to take photos of the main god and asked us to give him a donation. There were metal boxes with slots that said "donations, do not give tips to holy men" so when the man asked us to put money on the tray on top Sam jokingly asked him where the money on the tray goes and where that in the box goes, the man was honest and said "the money in the box goes to god and the money on the tray goes to me". Fair enough so Sam put money on the tray. There was another temple downstairs (which to the untrained eye would appear to be the same temple) which was similar to the upstairs temple. We returned to the alley outside and waited for the two temples around the corner to open at 11. We sat for 10 minutes on a wall looking at the carvings on the outside of the temple and narrowly missing being pooed on by a pigeon. At 11.01 we entered with the other tourists and explored the warren of temples leading off the main temple, some downstairs, some upstairs and one next door. They all had the same items inside, lots of sandstone and the occassional marble statue of gods with a central area with either a marble or piped-metal god outside of which there was a bell and a donation box. People ring the bell, pray, then put money in the box. Once we'd seen enough (well all of them) we set off in search of a good vantage point for a photo of the whole fort. We first tried a hotel that we could see a minaret inside but we couldn't get up to it as the doors were locked then we saw a mound in the distance, a little further from the fort with a small fort on it so decided to walk there. We stocked up on cold drinks before starting the climb as it was over 45 degrees and walked up through a shanty village with open sewers, rubbish all over the floor and really dark children from being outside all day. We reached the top and the view was beautiful. The golden city with the giant golden fort watching over the city below it. It was too hot in the midday sun so we retreated to a patch of shade under a tree which doubled up as the local rubbish dump so we didn't stay for long. When hunger overcame us we went in search of a restaurant. We met a boy in the street who held out his hand for Sam to shake it and introduced himself as Kevin Costner- the indian costume is very decieving! He recommended a place and it turned out to be really good, with a poster of "London Bridge" on the wall which was actually Tower Bridge. We sat on the cushion clad floor and watched the cricket on TV and had lovely flavoursome curries that weren't too hot. We picked up our bags from the hotel which had been moved down to reception for us and walked through town to the main road and along it to the train station. After queueing for over an hour to check the status of our seats only to be told to come back in half an hour I was fuming. I sat down and cooled off and when I went to join the queue again a nice man showed me that I could check on the computer next to the desks that had no queue- why couldn't the man have told me that before! It wasn't difficult to find the right platform as there were only 2 so we sat and played cards for 2 hours, intermittently being disturbed by a woman who had sat down next to me and was phoning all of her friends then passing the phone to me so that they could all hear me saying "hello" repeatedly down the phone. Once on the train with our bags padlocked to the table we settled down to sleep- hopefully no snorers tonight!

Posted by SamAmy 07:10 Archived in India Comments (0)

Khuri and our camel safari in the Thar desert

sunny 45 °C

I was woken early by the sound of the ticket man snoring on the bed across from me. I tried banging his clipboard on the table, no movement, I threw a tiny piece of metal from the table onto his legs, no movement, I put his spare sheet onto his feet, no movement so in the end I took the large paper bag that the bedsheets come in and scrunched it really quickly and loudly. He awoke startled then rolled onto his side and went to sleep- snoring free :) Back to sleep for me. I woke again at about 10 but spent most of the morning dozing waking only for breakfast
of spicy vegetable cutlets - not so good on soggy bread. When it was time to get off we got our bags out, got ready and waited another 2 hours as the train was late. We hopped off the train into a pack of rickshaw drivers who wouldn't believe that we wanted to confirm our tickets for 4 days time then catch a bus to Khuri, but we queued in the brawl that was the queue with guys in army uniform pushing and shoving and pushing in in front of us. In the end we got to the front only to be told to come back 4 hours before our train- grr. A nice rickshaw driver
approached us and asked where we wanted to go, he took us to the bus station and on the way stopped for fuel (CNG) put in 46 rupees worth, gave the guy 40 and drove off! He had told us that it was 20 rupees to take us there but when we arrived he asked for 20 each and wouldn't take the 20 so Sam left it on the roof of his rickshaw and we went to get on the bus which was already over full. We squashed in through the back doors with our bags and stood on the step. As the journey progressed we moved further into the bus and the 2 hours went remarkably quickly! We were greeted by one man from a guest house who lead us through the village to see his place. It was a desert here with mud huts and the odd metal building. Cattle pulling carts were common on the road and the tarmac of the main road didn't extend into the village. The guest house was a little courtyard with 5 mud huts with thatched rooves. The hut was alright, it had two beds and was basic but clean. The owner brought us chai and told us to have a shower and rest before filling in the form with our details. We walked to one of the small village shops and bought cold drinks and had a chat with the kids outside our gate. They liked our camera and one girl wanted to take some photos herself including a close-up of her face- I wonder how often she gets to see her own face. Sam played a game of roll the tyre with a little boy and we tried hard to stop them picking up and walking off with any of our possessions- including my half drunk bottle of Limca! They also pestered for money, ice-cream and chocolate non-stop. We spent the afternoon relaxing and had a walk around the village before dinner was served- curried
potatoes, onions, rice, roti, dal and baked crisps! yum! After dinner we set up our beds in the courtyard as it was far too hot in the hut, hanging our mosquito nets for the first time, from a cable across to our hut before going to sleep beneath the stars.

A new variety of breakfast today, sugared roti and tea :) A couple from Portugal arrived as we were eating, they had just returned from an overnight camel safari- which we will be doing tonight. We chatted over breakfast and they warned us to take socks for the giant beetles that crawl over you at night and recommended places to stay in Udaipur and Jodhpur. They left at 10am on their motorbike and we had a couple of hours to ourselves to lounge in the shade before 3 people from Korea arrived to come on the camel safari with us this afternoon. Lunch arrived as a similar spread to dinner last night and for 100 rupees (2 pounds) for both of us I wonder how they can afford all of this food! After lunch the children of the village came to pester the Korean guys who were much more fun for them. We have one camera, they each have a camera, phone, ipod, games console and laptop! They too gave in a lot more quickly and bought them chocolates and gave one of the kids a metal whistle because he asked for it- these kids will never learn to stop begging because people give them things! At 3.30 our camels arrived- all 6 of them with 5 drivers (why we need 5 guides for 5 people I don't know). The guides packed our luggage onto the camels then one by one we got on. I was the first up onto my camel which was much smaller than all of the other ones and I almost fell off when it lurched forwards to stand up. It was a comfortable ride as they took long strides so you didn't get bounced around much and the saddles were padded with the blankets that we will sleep on tonight! It was a beautiful day, cooling down into the evening, we were on camels in the Thar desert and we've been to so many amazing places in the last 9 months, it's incredible. I found my mind wandering back to the Gobi desert i Mongolia and the horse trekking in the North. It has been amazing and even if I didn't enjoy something at the time, like the horse riding, to look back at it it's just another thing added to the mix of experiences making up the best year of my life so far. Anyway back to the camel safari: We stopped to fill the guide's water bottles at a well outside Khuri and let the camels have a drink before riding to the next village where the owner of 3 of the camels lived. We stopped at his house for about 15 minutes and watched some local girls dancing on a wall in the house next door and wanted us to take photos and shouted "rupee, rupee". The daughter of the guide was in the courtyard with us and was mimicking and making fun of the other girls. I came up with a possible reasoning for this; her parents make a lot of money from tourists so they don't want beggars to annoy them or spoil their trip. We got back onto our camels after one of the drivers had asked Sam if we wanted to buy a bottle of wine for tonight, luckily the couple this morning had told us that it's horrible stuff so we said that we don't drink. He then proceeded to ask whether we'd like to buy a bottle for the drivers to drink- which I think was a little rude. We declined and set off out of the village and onto the sand dunes. We arrived after about an hour and hobbled the camels for the night down where there were some trees. The guides set about making our dinner on fires made from wood for the pans of rice and curry and of dried cow pats for the bread (which was buried in the smoldering poo). The food was too spicy for me and the bread tasted like cow poo but I ate a little as I was really hungry. The guides chatted in Hindi and the Koreans played with their laptop so we put out our mat and sleeping bag liners, brushed our teeth, lathered ourselves in insect repellent and lay to watch the stars. I must have drifted off because I woke up to the sound of a camel bell really close to us and getting closer. I sat and listened for a few minutes until it was within 5 metres of us then I got up and asked one of the guides to move it. He kept saying "it's no problem there" but I was more bothered by the fact that the guides and Koreans had put their beds right near the tops of the dunes after telling us to come down here so if anyone was going to get trampled on it was us! I was much happier with the camel on it's way back down to the tress so I settled back down to sleep after a minutes look at the stars now the clouds had completely disappeared.

Posted by SamAmy 04:25 Archived in India Comments (0)

Amber Fort and old Jaipur

sunny 45 °C

We woke up early, had breakfast of egg on Indian bread then waited outside for the rickshaw driver that had said last night that he will take us for a sight-seeing day to see the Amber Fort and another couple of places for 350 rupees. He was nowhere to be seen so we gave him 10 minutes before taking another rickshaw from across the road and asking him to take us to the train station as we wanted to buy tickets to Jaisalmer. All the way there he was pestering us about where we wanted to go after the station, did we want a tour? We said that we'd like to go to the centre of town and walk around but he wasn't happy with that, he got out a book of comments from other happy tour customers under the guise that he had a letter from a friend in England but couldn't read it so would Sam read it to him - it's a shame that we "DON'T WANT A TOUR". We bought train tickets then he took us to the city and left us to wander around under the impression that we would meet him at 4.30pm for a trip to the monkey temple, but based on his friend's track record (he was chatting this morning at the train station to the guy that should have picked us up this morning) we guessed that he wouldn't be there. We found a bus to Amber Fort without any difficulty and a man ushered us onto it (which luckily for us was almost full which means it will leave sometime soon). After 5 minutes we were on our way and for 6 rupees each! It seemed a lot closer that the 11km that it was said to be and we arrived after 15 minutes, much higher than Jaipur with the Jaigarh Fort even higher still. It was hot by the time we got there at lunchtime so we had a rest in the shade before tackling the mass of guides. After fending off a few it turned out that Sam would actually like a guide but when I said to go and chose one he said no- boys. The fort was massive and amber in colour with a beautiful painted gate leading out of the main square. There was a spectacular room inside decorated with mosaic mirrored tiles and stained glass windows. It must have been a magnificent sight when it was new and so expensive to construct. We wandered through the fort and up a track from the back of the fort up to Jaigarh Fort. It was scorching hot by this time and I was on the verge of overheating. It got even hotter on the climb up, we were plodding along when a pale-face came the other way saying "you're going well but there's nothing much at the top!" Thanks! Well we made it but I was REALLY hot by the time we got there so I sat for while whilst Sam explored the first little bit by himself before bringing me a cold drink- mmm. This fort wasn't as impressive as Amber fort as it hadn't been as well preserved but it did have the worlds largest wheeled cannon which was impressive. Once the heat of the day had subsided we walked back down to the road and with impeccable timing the bus pulled up as we left the gates without a single hassle from a rickshaw driver, 15 minutes later we were throw back into the hubub that is Jaipur. We waved down our first cycle-rickshaw to take us back to our hotel for a cool down. No sooner had we arrived back that I had a sudden thought, this is our only night in Jaipur and we wanted to go to the famous "Raj Mandir" cinema! I phoned to book seats but the man said "booking at window 6" so we sped off to the cinema hoping that if we hurried there might be seats left for the 9.30pm showing. We walked quickly and a funny cycle-rickshaw driver followed us for a while, he started at 20 rupees (not knowing where we wanted to go) then as he realised that we weren't interested he started to go up in price. He got all the way to 250 rupees before saying "good day", smiling and cycling off. We made it to the cinema and the "ladies only" queue only had 2 women in it so I queued. With the choice of Emerald or Diamond seats I chose Diamond for our first time ever in a "box" (hopefully not a cardboard one for the 2 pounds that it cost!). There was only time for a quick macdonalds before the show as it was next door before entering the pink meringue building to discover the brilliance that lay inside. Pale blue and pink decor with chandeliers and a spiral staircase, it was beautiful, clean and ornate. We took our seats in the balcony (not box) and watched the film. It was all in Hindi but we picked up a fair bit of it of it as it was a simple story and was still funny just to watch. We walked back to out hotel and straight into bed to watch the lizards on our wall, they were yellow and almost camouflaged on our walls.

On our last day in Jaipur we walked to the Peace Palace Hotel for breakfast in their rooftop restaurant, the food was good but the views weren't great. We spent a couple of hours wandering around the backstreets inside the city walls, the people there were all really friendly putting their hands together and saying "Namaste". We climbed the Heaven Piercing Minaret (Iswari Minar Swarga Sal) and ascended the spiral staircase which was actually a long curved ramp to see the views of the old pink city. The views were lovely, sandstone buildings and some newer buildings not made from sandstone but painted pink. The security guard at the top hassled us, wanting to point out buildings and take photos of us. He obviously wanted a 'tip' but I would rather have given him a tip to leave us alone! There were some new areas to the city and some crumbling old ones, I stood and watched the long-eared cows meandering along the road, not caring about the vehicular mayhem occurring around them. When we had taken in the view and were tired of the security man we headed down with the security man in tow as we'd offered him 10 rupees for the photos but he insisted on being paid at the bottom. The man who had 'innocently' asked us how we got here when we arrived turned out to be a rickshaw driver who now began pestering to take us for a tour, we walked away and he eventually left us alone. We ventured into the back streets again and bought a shirt for Sam after the man in the shop had got almost all of them out of the boxes, he still cheated us by saying that it was the same size as one that Sam had tried when instead it was much bigger- never trust an Indian selling you something!! In the afternoon we looked around the Hawa Mahal, a five-storey "palace" but most of which was a courtyard. The front face is made from sandstone lattice so that ladies could watch the people in the street without the people seeing them. We rested in an internet cafe before going to the hotel, collecting our bags and taking a rickshaw to the train station where we queued and reserved tickets for the next section of our journey from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur. There was cricket on the TV in the waiting room so we watched the game whilst making a new friend, a guy who had come to the station just to watch the cricket as he's in Jaipur for an interview. Our train was only 10 minutes late so at 00.01 we were in our beds, bags locked to the metal loop beneath the bed and off to sleep once the ticket guy had came and sat in our compartment for ages with the light on and talking on the phone- grrr.

Posted by SamAmy 03:40 Archived in India Comments (0)

'Friendly' locals and on to Jaipur

sunny 45 °C

The old fort in the centre of Delhi was very dilapidated but some of the original paint remained on the gates in floral patterns which was pretty. We had almost decided to go to Humayen's tomb when I spotted the zoo next door- the largest zoo in India and only 60 rupees each! The usual funny rules applied so I disposed of the tiny plastic bag which was preventing the permanent marker from leaking all over my bag (just in case I decided to get it out and feed it to an animal) and we were ushered inside. There was a recommended route to follow which went past most of the animals and took two hours so we followed that and adapt it a little. There were lots of varieties of deer, a white tiger, an Indian elephant, cheetas, lions, monkeys, birds and crocodiles. We spent well over 2 hours there before walking to Humayen's tomb via a cafe for lunch (where we would have spent more money had they not said that we had to have takeaway as the tables were full and we shouldn't wait- fine!). There was the highest concentration of pale-faces at the tomb that we have seen so far and once avoiding the 'guides' trying to accost us we were free to wander. The tomb itself was constructed from sandstone with lattices over the windows and had white marble tombs inside, some with an inscription in Hindi and some without. The grounds were a different matter though, a complete mess with all of the turf dug up and some of the paving removed, and the excuse - the commonwealth games (that seems like the general excuse for all mess at the moment - improvements!). After the tomb we got a rickshaw to New Delhi train station to book a train to Jaipur which turned out to be a hassle-free experience (in the 'foreigners only' office) but just required patience as the queue was long so once we'd established which way around the chairs the queue was we sat and waited. One hour later and tickets in hand we exited the station to find the metro station and meet Ryan for dinner. A 'kind' man directed us the wrong way and tried all the scams in the book "do you have train tickets?, a hotel?, are you hungry?, I will show you some cheap shop!" were some of the ones that he tried in that annoying but polite way which meant that we couldn't really say "bugger off!" In the end he realised that he wasn't going to make money from us so said "bye" and was gone. We eventually asked a police officer for directions as by this point I was feeling uneasy after witnessing some kids stealing a bag from the floor of a bus at a stop and a little kid flashing a wallet stuffed with money to his mates- no doubt someone is missing that! We stopped for photo of "Mandi House" for Amanda then hung around outside Pragati Maidan metro station as Ryan was meeting us at 8pm. Surprisingly we were only hassled once by an old man who seemed quite harmless and just told us about his job as an artist and asked if we'd come to look at his exhibits tomorrow - we said maybe for ease of departure and went to meet Ryan. After having a photo taken holding a man's baby we wandered off to a North Indian restaurant where we met Ryan's friends from university and had a delicious meal. Ryan took us on the bus back to his place which was a new experience- our first Indian bus, it was rickety old bus but didn't have many people crammed onto it so we all got seats. We got into bed when we got back, tired from a days exploring in the heat whilst Ryan worked the night away with his friend.

We left Ryan (still working after only a power-nap) and took a box of things to post home to the central post office which turned out to be in the centre of a roundabout so we had to dice with the traffic to get there! It was closed when we got there being a Sunday so we took a rickshaw to Conaught Place to get some food. The place that we wanted to go to was closed so a 'friendly' man took us to a 'cheap' restaurant which, luckily for us, was closed as well. After he'd tried to take us to a shopping emporium and a train ticket booking office we finally shook him off and went into Macdonalds. We ordered some food (a chicken maharaja burger for Sam) and sat down in peace at a table. A matter of seconds later a couple of men came over and asked if the other 2 seats were taken, I said no and expected them to take them but instead they sat down with us! They wanted to take us to buy train tickets- we couldn't convince them that we weren't interested so we left, walked straight to the metro and back to Ryan's house for a relax and cool down. At 1.30 Ryan and his friend walked us to the metro station with all of our bags and we said goodbye and headed to the train station, it wasn't a final goodbye though as we've left a bag at Ryan's house to pick up when we come back to Delhi in 3 weeks! We walked through the train station hassle-free, found our train, located our carriage (right at the end of the platform) and chilled out in our seats for a quick 6 hours. In the evening we arrived in Jaipur and were greeted by a hubub of rickshaw drivers all wanting to take us somewhere or other. I was tired but more annoyed that they wouldn't leave us alone so I started to walk. One guy had followed us for about 5 minutes and in the end we let him take us to the pre-pay rickshaw stand and he got what he wanted- to take us to our hotel. The Devi Niwas hotel was drab and we'd asked for a non-AC room but it was quite hot so i asked if they had an AC one (hoping for a nicer room) but instead they went outside our room, flicked a switch and said yes, AC (only 200 rupees more for cool drab room!). We had a shower before an early bed, happy to be cool and have arrived safely.

Posted by SamAmy 02:00 Archived in India Comments (0)

Fun in Delhi

Ryan helped us plan what we should do with our days in Delhi and today we started the plan! We set off on the metro for Akshardam temple but when we arrived at the metro station we couldn't find the temple. It looked really close on our bad map so we decided that we'd bypass the rickshaws and walk. We walked into the house-lined streets and got a little bit lost so we asked a lady which way to go, she said back the way that we'd come from on the left so we wandered back. We had walked about half-way back to the metro station before turning left and finding a temple which we presumed must be it so in we went leaving our shoes at the door. Inside there were the usual deities but also in the corner were people pouring water over stone figures and over a large sphere in the centre. We stood at the back watching the people go about their daily activities when a lady came over and said "come with me, here" she took us over to the water and gace us each a cup of water and showed us which order to pour water over the figures. Afterwards she gave us a brief tour of the temple, explaining who all of the main statues were before the holy man in the centre gave us each a red dot on our foreheads. It was very interesting to do but the red dots had to go so we wiped them off before continuing on our quest to find Akshardam as after reading Lonely Planet we're pretty sure that that wasn't it!

With one more set of directions we found it- it was huge! Over 100 times larger than the one we visited earlier including huge grounds, red sandstone walls and gateways. When we eventually found the entrance, right behind the metro station the way that we couldn't see from inside. There were 3 queues that we had to patiently stand in, firstly check our bag in, then queue for the next queue then security check and we were inside! It was an amazing sight- tons of intricately carved sandstone with elephants, gods and patterns covering almost all of the exposed surfaces. We walked around and read the stories of the elephants first: the one whose owner stole food from it so it retaliated by almost killing him and the elephants that were happily a part of families and they were fed a lot and worked for the humans. The grand temple in the centre of the complex was sadly closed for renovations (and that is the most impressive part) but the grounds were spectacular in themselves!

When the heat of the day got too much for us we travelled across Delhi to the Lotus Temple. The auto rickshaw driver was in a really happy mood and put some hindi music on for us, when he saw that we were enjoying it he turned it up to ear-piercing volume. This is what I imagined India to be like- fast, loud, colouful and in a rickshaw driven by a crazy driver in crazy traffic. We arrived unscathed and wandered through the security detectors which beeped but nobody seemed bothered so we just carried on. We were organised into queues outside the temple (which looked a lot like the Sydney Opera House in terms of the rounded pieces used in the construction) and a lady explained that we could sit in the temple but that silence must be maintained at all times. It was like a concert hall inside with a hihg roof and very quiet (due to the silence rule). We had been told by Ryan that there were readings inside at certain times so I tried to ask the lady at the information desk when they were, the answer I got was "come back in 165 years and you'll see the difference", "if you go to the information centre there is a lot of information about the man who designed the building". I don't think that she understood my question! The next 2 hours were wasted, firstly being taken to a 'commission stop' by a rickshaw driver who said that we had to stay in the shop for 10 minutes otherwise he wouldn't take us, and secondly he took us to the wrong place- the other side of Delhi. We didn't feel like looking around the ruins that he had brought us to so instead we walked to India Gate and Sam stopped to had a nose-bleed on the way. We bought some water and ice lollies and I took some photos of the gate before it got dark! Sam was accosted by a lady who said that she was collecting money for a school so he gave her a bit of change (as it probably wasn't for a school). We stopped to have a drink of water and, no kidding, within 2 seconds the same lady was back, took the water from Sam's hand and poured it on his head saying that it would cure his nose-bleed which had stopped a long time ago but he had dried blood on his nose. Just as Sam was recovering from his molesting a girl came towards me with what looked like a sharp metal point- I jumped back in time just before she touched my arm- luckily she was saying "henna" and it was a tinfoil tube but I was still a little shocked. We got back to Ryan's place then went for dinner to a food court near his flat, Ryan helped us to choose our food but didn't have anything himself as it's good friday and he fasts. After dinner we returned to Ryan's room to sleep and he worked until 3am before returning to sleep.

Posted by SamAmy 04:50 Archived in India Comments (0)

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